When it comes to collections, there are few brands that come as comprehensive as Neighborhood. Taking its cues from all corners of menswear history, Shinsuke Takizawa’s NBHD seems to have expanded in the last few years – at least as far as its international presence goes – to provide a grander image of Takizawa’s passions beyond his biker tastes.
From rugged rebel roots the brand’s collections now encompass vintage and contemporary trends from 20th century motor culture to rock and punk styles, each faction distinct and tangible but equally cohesive as a whole. This has also seen the brand producing segmented lookbooks with distinct individual styles, something they have utilised once more for their Fall/Winter 2014 collection.
Category 01, ‘Working Class Hero’, showcases reinterpretations of historic work pieces such as chore jackets and coveralls, with denim and canvas featuring heavily. Contemporary stylistic interpretations sit confidently alongside classic workwear ensembles and the brand’s renowned denim gets a healthy showing. In terms of the overall collection, it feels like this section outlines the raw materials that inspire proceeding styles and the uncompromising workwear aesthetic of the shoot works well against the gradually softening looks later on.
Category 02 is entitled ‘Gentleman’s Ride’ and transports the scene from business to leisure with an early 20th-century motorcycle troupe. The shoot features more casual pieces and introduces ornamentation and detail, looking back upon the genesis of motor culture as well as drawing lines towards the greaser-rebel aesthetic where NBHD has its base.
The shoot also gives a nod to two upcoming collaborations with the Old Joe and Brown’s Beach Jacket brands; two classic tailoring companies who were leaders of their time before giving way to cheaper materials and manufacturing methods in the 1960s. Both brands have since experienced a revival in Japan thanks to the nation’s discerning eye for quality and no doubt their return in the hands of Takizawa will ensure the pieces are restored to their original greatness with some necessary NBHD adjustments.
Category 03, ‘Wild Hearted Son’, brings the collection forward with more fashion-focal pieces and a modern casual aesthetic.
Accessible pieces such as a cowichan sweater and gilet vest are woven into the frontier feel of the outdoors shoot; from the traditional pieces of the first two sections we now see more prints, patterns and motifs. Personal highlights include the Ranch-print rider jacket and embroidered pullover shirt, and the segment serves as a well-seasoned slice of Americana, drawing subtle allusions to all manner of Stateside lifestyles from cattle ranch to Nascar.
The final category, ‘Military Specification Modify’ is as its name suggests, presenting a selection of military-inspired garments and the apex of “Lone Rebel” aesthetic for the season. The shoot is heavily stylized with external imagery and rounds the collection off nicely, saying more of the “feel” than it does of the look. The shoot also showcases my highlight from the season in a unique jagged zebra-camo pattern that features on both jackets and pants. For the faint of heart, perhaps not, but something tells me those pieces aren’t going to sit around long once they hit shelves.
As far as lookbooks go, the Neighborhood ones are always a challenge in so far as pinpointing the flavour goes. In a similar vein to the way WTaps’ military tastes have spread over recent seasons to bring more and more of founder Tet’s passions onto the screen, so to do recent Neighborhood collections seem to broaden their scope from rugged motorcycle roots into a timeline of American frontiers in the 20th century.
For someone who grew up in skate shoes and metal t-shirts it might be hard to for me to engage with some of the more mature pieces, but it’s just so mindblowing to think of Takizawa as streetwear’s Vivaldi coming out with some ‘Four Seasons’ level collections that leave you with some serious stuff to chew on.
From humble beginnings in the Harajuku Movement of the early 90s, Shinsuke Takizawa and the NBHD family has grown to be an authority on contemporary style and the designer’s firm grasp of so many of the styles and trends that came before him surely demonstrates why. Neighborhood’s entire collections literally ooze authenticity like nobody else, and it’s always a pleasure to both indulge in the styles that speak to me and to be educated by those pieces that, whilst not necessarily set for my wardrobe anytime soon, are crafted with such precision and care that they make me wish they were.
Neighborhood’s Fall/Winter 2014 collection is now available from stockists worldwide including Goodhood (UK), End Clothing (Global) and Haven (CA). Visit the Neighborhood website now to see the entire collection and catalog, or enjoy a small selection of my favourite style shots below. Thanks again and safe.