Scene: A stereotypical police force sergeant-esque character with handlebar moustache and brown slacks storms through an office toward the door of a private room with shuttered blinds. The sign on the door reads ‘Other British Streetwear Labels’. Dossier of paperwork in hand, the sergeant kicks the door wide open, almost removing it from its hinges, and stands for a second in the doorway. The worker at the desk jumps back in shock, dropping the phone from their hand, gazing back at their superior in terror.
He marches to the desk, sweeps everything on to the floor, kicks their computer across the room and throws their briefcase through the window. ‘Damnit British Streetwear! Your office has been slacking for too long! You think the rest of this department will stand for this shit? Well guess what Brit; your ass is grass! I want your desk cleared by end of work day or I’m coming back to throw your pathetic excuse for streetwear out myself! I’ve got enough documentation in this file to send your trash back to the stone age before you’ve even taken that thumb out of your ass!’ He throws the dossier into their face. It drops down onto the empty desk. Scrawled in thick black marker, its title reads ‘The Moving Development‘.
This week Bristol’s The Moving Development came back with its latest collection, continuing its history of Japanese-inspired rough and rugged motorcycle gear with its most expansive collection yet. Taking clear cues from brands like WTaps, NBHD, Rats, Tenderloin and the like, brand founder Bakes has been consistently channeling the best aspects of Japan’s penchant for authentic, culturally-stylised clothing into his label for several years now and has only gone from strength to strength.
The latest collection sees TMD experimenting more than ever with textiles, construction and ornamentation. Greaser essentials like rayon shirts and twill short-sleeves see Bakes pushing the brand further than ever, whilst clean chain-stitch lettering and patch embroideries show real dedication to creating comprehensive product. We can also see the introduction of some clean and simple legwear pieces, some leather accessories and, most impressively, some flawless outerwear including a 30oz cow leather Riders’ jacket that looks perfect.
The accompanying lookbook continues TMD’s pure understanding of how to create a brand identity from product to presentation. It’s a simple but clearly-spoken construction of the lifestyle that the brand represents, complete with Harley-Davidson motorcycles and warm, nostalgic sunsets.
Every single time TMD comes back on the scene my immediate reaction is quite literally, ‘Ayyyyyy’. There are so few people in the British scene on TMD’s level that are doing things the way they do it. Every single season they come through with solid, incredibly developed product with all the attention to detail that a brand like this requires. Tiny components that might seem extravagant in any other brand are put to use in totally the right way and create collections that consistently punch above their weight.
And that’s before you even get on to the price. £45 for a pair of trousers or a cotton short-sleeve? £55 for a long-sleeve prison shirt? The biggest strength of TMD is that they literally come out and show you that these kind of things can and should be done. Product this well-developed with prices so obscenely reasonable end up feeling like a massive “fuck you” to all other ideas of how small and independent brands should be operated.
Regardless of whether it fits your personal style, it’s impossible to look at TMD and deny how solid the final product actually is. You can see that this is a project of passion; production numbers might not be huge, sometimes things take their time, more times than not it sells out before you can even get a look in, but this is the creation of someone who genuinely gives a shit, wants to play their own part in the scene in the best way possible, and genuinely stays true to their original mantra to keep it moving every single season.
Hit up The Moving Development’s website now to check out the full collection on their online store. Follow Bakes on Instagram and let him know what a don he is for sonning every screen-printed Gildan basic out there. Find out his bank details and wire him the extra money you owe him for creating button-ups that would normally sell for four times the prices he charges. Fuck, just do something.